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Laundry Hookup: Water, Drain, Vent & Power

8 min read·Updated July 7, 2026

Materials list for adding or moving a laundry hookup — supply lines, standpipe, dryer vent, and 220V considerations.

The 4 systems in a laundry hookup

Every laundry rough-in needs four things: hot + cold water supply, drain (standpipe), dryer vent (unless ventless), and electrical (120V for gas dryer, 240V for electric). Missing any one of these turns a weekend project into a week.

Water supply

  • Hot and cold PEX or copper lines to the wall box
  • Recessed washing machine outlet box with dual shutoffs
  • Braided stainless steel washer hoses (never rubber — rated for a fraction of the life)
  • Wall-mount hammer arrestors on both lines (prevents pipe knock)

Drain / standpipe

  • 2" DWV pipe, PVC or ABS to match the existing system
  • Standpipe height: 36"–42" from floor to top of pipe
  • P-trap 6"–18" below the standpipe inlet
  • Air admittance valve (AAV) if venting through the roof isn't feasible

Dryer vent

  • 4" rigid metal vent duct (never plastic flex — fire hazard)
  • Foil tape at each joint
  • Exterior wall cap with backdraft damper
  • Keep total run under 25 ft; deduct 5 ft per 90° elbow
  • Gas dryer: check the manufacturer's max vent length carefully

Electrical

  • Electric dryer: 240V, 30A dedicated circuit, 10/3 romex, NEMA 14-30 outlet
  • Gas dryer: 120V standard outlet + a shutoff valve on the gas line
  • Panel/240V work → licensed electrician. Gas line → licensed plumber.

Frequently asked

Can I move my laundry to a second-floor closet?
Yes, but you'll need a drain pan under the washer, an appropriately-sized floor drain or emergency shutoff, and confirmation that the floor structure can handle the load.
Is a ventless dryer easier?
Slightly — you skip the dryer vent. But they take 2–3× longer to dry and cost more upfront.
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